Irrigator Installation

If after reading these instructions you are still having difficulties, help is not far away. Simply contact us for assistance.

Standard Irrigator

Assembly

  • Attach wheels to back axel using split pins supplied
  • Place inlet flange on axel bolts using a washer as a spacer between the flange and back of irrigator
  • Screw arms in tightly using plumbing tape
  • Support rods are bolted to the flat on top of riser and tags on the arms. Tighten rods so as to slightly lift the arms.

Rotation

  • The outer arms should be set at about 45°, then varied up to slow down or down to increase rotation speed.
  • Place axel in back of the irrigator make sure it is central (drilled holes are not central in axel). Put front wheel on.
  • Insert riser in the inlet flange and bolt to the back of the irrigator. Make sure the riser can turn freely. If not adjust spacers.
  • Leave the support tag pointing up.
  • A full rotation should take between 4 to 5 seconds regardless of water volume and pressure, and turning in a clock wise direction.

11 Meter Extension

  • Screw the two lengths of three meter pipe into the “T” at the top of the riser. Make sure they are done up very tight. Attach the clamps with a single tag facing down approximately 750mm from the riser.
  • Bolt the two pieces of flat to the tag and the bracket on the riser. Tighten all nut and bolts.
  • Attach the 12mm rod to the outer tag and the flat at the top of the riser. Be sure to have just enough tension as to slightly lift the pipe. You will need to make sure you bolt the cable guide (C) on top of the riser with the support arms. The cable bracket is attached to the top cable a short piece of flat with a tube attached.
  • Now is the time to place the two 25 x 25mm uprights (A) over the ends of the arms and tighten them about 200mm from the outer tag pointing upwards.
  • Attach the Riser Cross Post (B) (25mm RHS joined with a clamp) to the top of the riser directly under the “T” and tighten bolts.
  • Attach the 2 mt length of pipe and tighten.
  • Place the cable anchors (clamp with two tags) over the end of the 2 mt pipe approx 800mm from the end. Attach the side cables and tighten with the turnbuckles. Place the top cable support knob in the uprights and tighten turnbuckles. Be sure to tighten lock nuts on buckles after the cables have been tightened.

Travel Speed Adjustment

The speed of the irrigator is determined by the “R” clip in one of the four, or five (depending which model), holes in the base of the irrigator, which is located at the bottom of the pivoting mechanism.

  • The hole closest to the back axel represents one tooth on the cog and the 4th hole 4 teeth. E.g. 5000 G.P.H. with 1/2″ nozzles should be set on the second hole (two teeth). This cycle takes approximately 6 – 7 hours and puts out about 1″ of water.
  • Once the travel speed has been selected lift both the front and back pawls away from the cog.
  • Run your cable out to the desired length and anchor to a solid object. (A star picket at an angle will suffice normally)
  • Return to your irrigator and make sure the small front pawl is firmly locked into the cog.

Maintenance

  • Grease all points approximately once a week.
  • Before you first use your irrigator grease the main cog, and continue to do so periodically.
  • With effluent use old sump oil and pour it over the cable to extend its life.
  • The right angle water flange at the bottom of the vertical shaft has a 2″ slow drain fluming rubber (“V” rubber seal) in it and will need replacing about once a year. Just undo the two bolts holding it in place and it will come off.
  • On some models the cable passes over a ceramic insulator. This is a sacrificial part and is designed to wear and break protecting your cable from fraying. When this roller is broken it should be replaced immediately.

VCI-Mk1 & VCI-Mk2

When you receive your irrigator it will most likely be packed onto a pallet. Unpack you irrigator and lay everything on the ground.

  • Place the body of your irrigator on an elevated surface approximately 450mm off the ground.
  • Place the rear axel in the channel and slide the two bolts through the channel and axel.
  • Fit the elbow so as the opening is facing the rear and tighten the nuts supplied.
  • Fit the front wheel by sliding the rod through the pipe in the front of the frame and inserting the “R” clip provided.
  • Insert the riser into the elbow and fasten the four bolts through the bearings onto the back of the frame. When you have tightened the bolts make sure the riser turns freely in the bearings and is not rubbing on the edge of the elbow. (If this does happen adjust the elbow and or riser so as its central in the elbow)
  • Put thread tape on the threads of all pipe.
  • Screw the two lengths of four meter pipe into the “T” at the top of the riser. Make sure they are done up very tight with the short tag facing the ground and closest to the riser.
  • Bolt the two pieces of flat to the short tag and the bracket on the riser. Tighten all nut and bolts.
  • Attach the 3/4 rod to the outer tag and the flat at the top of the riser. Be sure to have just enough tension as to slightly lift the pipe. If you have a VCI-Mk2 make sure you bolt the cable bracket on top of the riser with the support arms. The cable bracket is attached to the top cable a short piece of flat with a tube attached.

If you have a VCI-Mk2 now is the time to place the two 25 x 25mm uprights over the ends of the arms and tighten them about 200mm from the outer tag pointing upwards.

  • Attach the cable support (25mm RHS joined with a clamp) to the top of the riser directly under the “T” and tighten bolts.
  • If you have a VCI-Mk2 next attach the 2 mt length of pipe and tighten.
  • Place the cable anchors (clamp with two tags) over the end of the 2 mt pipe approx 800mm from the end. VCI-Mk2 only.
  • Attach the side cables and tighten with the turnbuckles. If you have a top cable (VCI-Mk2 only), place the cable support knob in the uprights and tighten turnbuckles. Be sure to tighten lock nuts on buckles after the cables have been tightened.

Rotation

  • Screw on the outer arms and place them at about 45 degrees, then varied up to slow down or down to increase rotation speed.
  • A full rotation should take between 4 and 5 seconds regardless of water volume and pressure, and turning in a clockwise direction.

Travel Speed Adjustment

The speed of the irrigator is determined by the “R” clip in one of the five holes in the rod at the base of the irrigator directly below the cog, at the bottom of the pivoting mechanism.

  • The hole closest to the back of the irrigator represents one tooth on the cog and the 5th hole 5 teeth. E.g. 5000 GPH with 1/2 inch nozzles should be set on the second hole (two teeth). This cycle takes approximately 9 – 10 hours and puts on about 1″ of water.
  • Once the travel speed has been selected lift both the front and back pawls away from the cog.
  • Run your cable out to the desired length and anchor to a solid object. ( A star picket at an angle will suffice normally)
  • Return to your irrigator and make sure the small front pawl is firmly locked into the cog.
  • Then set the large back pawl with a 1/8″ – 1/4″ clearance (2-5mm gap from the back of the tooth) i.e. front pawl engaged, back pawl free.
  • Take up the slack in the cable.
  • Kneel down and spin the boom around in a clockwise rotation, watch out for your head. Check the amount of teeth taken and the clearance of the back pawl.
  • Each time the speed is changed the large back pawl may need to be adjusted.

Maintenance

  • Grease all points approximately once a week
  • Before you use your irrigator, grease the main cog and then periodically.
  • With effluent use old sump oil and pour it over the cable to extend its life.
  • The right angle flange at the bottom of the vertical shaft has a 2.5″ slow drain fluming rubber (“V” rubber seal) in it and will need replacing about once a year. Just undo the two bolts holding it in place and it will come off.